Cuba was unique from my other trips in that I didn’t have access to the same amenities and conveniences. Usually when I travel, I put a few things on my list I want to do but there’s never a set plan. I arrive and go with the flow. This time around I couldn’t do that. I had to be strategic with how I was spending money, using internet, consuming water. I had a good time nonetheless.
06/04/19
Once I landed in Havana I went through immigration and security which took only 10 minutes. They didn’t ask me any questions about the reason for my visit. My picture was taken, passport stamped, and I was done. It was much easier than I expected. After getting through I found a money exchange office to get cash for my stay. Cuba charges an additional 10% conversion fee for USD on top of the original 3% fee. Some might say it’s better to convert USD to Euros to avoid the fee but it’s so negligible once you do the math it doesn’t matter much in my opinion. Cuba has two different currencies, the CUP(Cuban Pesos) for Cubans and CUC(Convertible Pesos) for visitors. The CUC is worth significantly more than the CUP and is always equivalent to the dollar. Credit and debit cards from the United States do not work at all in Cuba, not even at ATMs, so bringing enough cash for your entire trip is vital. I reserved a ride before my arrival so I looked for the man holding a sign with my name on it. Once I found him he gave me a ride to my accommodation in his classic car definitely made in the 50s. I stayed in a casa particular which is the cheapest and best way to naturally immerse yourself into the culture since you’re staying in a home with a real family. I shared a room and bathroom with a Hispanic woman in her 20s. She was friendly and seemed unbothered by the presence of a strange foreigner. The bathroom had a flimsy plastic door that barely closes and doesn’t lock. The A/C worked well though so I was happy. It was a late flight and a day full of long layovers so I went straight to bed.
06/05/19
I started my morning with a free walking tour, which I booked through AirBnB Experiences. I met my guide at Central Park which is 2 miles away from where I was staying. I opted to walk and not hail a taxi to take in the sites and observe the people. On my way there a guy stopped me and said “Thank you for Obama!”. I don’t know what gave away that I was American but I was disappointed because I thought I was blending in. Anyway, I arrived at the park and met my guide Robert. While we walked I learned the history of Cuba and it’s people. Robert was knowledgeable, friendly, and had the answers to all of my questions. El Capitolio, Plaza de la Catedral, and Old Town Square were a few of the spots we visited and discussed. I also learned more about Robert and his life. Most of his income comes from the tips he receives from giving free tours to foreign visitors. Oftentimes he makes more money in one day than his mother, who’s a lawyer, makes in an entire month! The highlight of the tour was La Bodeguita Del Medio which is the bar where mojitos were made famous. This bar was also frequented by writer Ernest Hemingway. By the end of the tour I was left amazed at the resiliency of Cuba to successfully fight against the international Superpowers that tried to control them and the leaders that made it possible. After the tour ended I gave Robert a cash tip to thank him for being so awesome. Then I decided to head back to the casa and rest for a bit. On the way there I encountered a man that looked like the Cuban version of the rapper Baby. He had the same build and had gold around his neck and wrist. He invited me into a bar to have mojitos with him and I reluctantly accepted. He spoke more English than most and I learn that he goes back and forth between Cuba and Miami. The mojitos were good but I knew he had an agenda so I was cautious. We start talking politics and he tells me how much he loves Obama and American people but hates the United States government. Then he begins asking me a series of questions about the kind of women I like and that’s when it hits me that this guy is a pimp. Still, I stick around because the entire ordeal is entertaining. He gets on the phone and 15 minutes later a beautiful woman shows up and sits next to me. It just got real. She didn’t speak any English so I spoke to her in the limited Spanish I knew trying to be cordial and make it clear I wasn’t having sex with her. The pimp asks if we want a picture together so I said sure. Instead of smiling or posing like a normal person taking a picture she decided to grab my face and kiss me instead. As time passes she starts getting more aggressive in her advances and gets upset as I continue to reject her. She yells out “Ay, Dios Mio!” as I push her away from me. I get up and walk away without looking back. After resting a bit I walked to El Malecon where I watched the sunset and pondered how long it would take to swim from the shore to Florida. After the sun went down I went to Cafe Mamaine for a meal and drink, which costed me a whopping $3. I then headed back to El Malecon and listened to the waves crash against the rocks. It seemed like a perfect way to end my first full day in Havana.
06/06/19
The next day my legs got a workout. It started with me attempting to find a place to purchase a WiFi Card. I was lost, frustrated, and seemed to be walking aimlessly. This is when a man approached me asking what time it was. As I was telling him, he realized that I was American and gives me great tips for my stay in Havana. He tells me that cigars are half off today and guides me to a man who may be selling it out of his house. As we walked he talked nonstop about his love for Obama with a huge smile on his face. I was starting to see a pattern. We reached the man selling cigars and once again I was told how much Cubans love Obama. He tells me that the 44th president of the United States making it easier for Americans to visit has been a massive boost to the economy and has improved the lives of the millions that live on this island. After our economics talk he showed me three different brands of cigars and explained the process to make them. I was offered a great deal but it was still more than I was willing to pay so I declined and left. I continued my search for internet and found it within 2 minutes of walking. It was a booth with ETECSA written on the side. I purchased an internet card and sat on the sidewalk browsing social media. A clear indication of the WiFi hotspots are groups of people crowded together quietly on their phones or laptops. My internet browsing drained my battery so after 45 minutes I headed back to my casa particular to charge up and relax next to the A/C. Later I walked down to Revolution Plaza to see the monuments built paying tribute to revolutionary leaders. The heat and humidity outside was unbearable so I didn’t stick around long. Next, I walked to El Cocinero which is a rooftop restaurant and bar. It has a modern twist to Cuban food similar to something you’d find in Miami but at a fraction of the price. After lunch I met up with a guide to show me the nightlife scene. We started by getting to know each other. Her name was Cynthia and she’s a university student studying French and German. She learned English though solely from listening to music and watching TV shows. While we talked she bought us two shots of Especial rum. After our rum shots she pulls out a box of Cohiba cigars for us to smoke. I liked her already. We walked to another nearby bar where there was a live band performing salsa music. We danced together and drank rum for hours. It was a fun experience and I learned some new dance moves. Later we hopped in a taxi together back to the neighborhood where I was staying because she wanted to ride with me. We hugged and kissed goodbye while I promised to come back to Cuba again to visit. The taxi ended up being double the original quoted price but I had such a good time I didn’t care much.
06/07/19
The following morning was a bit of a rough start. There was no running water so I couldn’t take a shower and no electricity so I couldn’t charge my phone. These amenities go in and out here. You don’t realize how much you depend on water and electrical power until you don’t have it. It only lasted for about 6 hours but it was a learning experience because I took these things for granted living in the States. After cleaning up and juicing up my phone I walked to El Capitolio to meet up with a photographer named Manuel that I hired. Often when I travel I either end up taking a lot of selfies or have to awkwardly ask pedestrians to snap photos of me and they never come out the way I want them to. I decided I wanted quality photos for once. It was also a great way to support local entrepreneurs. The photo shoot was a success. I experienced cool sites I wouldn’t have discovered on my own and had the opportunity to ride shotgun in a classic convertible. We ended our time together having drinks on the rooftop of a luxury hotel. After we were done I was left exhausted and dehydrated which seemed to happen often, especially during the day. Cuba is so hot and humid you are constantly sweating. No matter how much water I drank I was still thirsty. The perpetual state of thirst was one of my biggest challenges. Drinking from the tap isn’t an option because it will make you sick so I was constantly looking for places to purchase water. Finding bottled water was no easy feat either but there seemed to be spots to purchase rum on every corner. On the bright side my skin was smoother and seemed to glisten in the sun. I must have been sweating out all the toxins in my pores. After recouping I headed to Jazz Club La Zorra Y El Cuervo. It’s an overpriced tourist trap but the live jazz musicians are incredible so it’s worth it. There’s a 15 CUC cover but it came with 2 drinks so that’s a plus. The bar was full of Americans and Europeans so it was a relief being able to communicate in English again. I’ve been self conscious and embarrassed by how terrible my Spanish is. Anyway, I spent the rest of my night at this bar drinking rum once again and meeting new people.
06/08/19
This day wasn’t as activity filled because the humidity was so high it was difficult being outside. Shaded areas provided little relief. I walked around for an hour and said “Okay that’s enough” and stayed in until the sun was less brutal. The fun came later when I had the opportunity to cook a traditional Cuban meal with a family. First I learned how to make mojitos. Next came the main course which was rice, beans, and thinly sliced pork steak. It was all very simple to make and delicious. Before my arrival to Cuba I read many online sites that claimed the food isn’t good because the government doesn’t allow them to have seasoning. That wasn't my experience at all. After dinner I took a taxi to Fabrica de Arte Cubano only to find out that they’re closed until July. I was next door to El Cocinero so I had drinks there instead and headed back. One thing I noticed was my taxi ride there was only 5 CUC but returning I paid 15 CUC. I'm not sure what creates this discrepancy but I didn't know enough Spanish to negotiate the price. One theory I have is El Cocinero is a bar popular with American visitors so my driver returning already knew where I was from and may have charged me extra because of it. My returning driver spoke English and most of our conversation on the way was about how much he dislikes the current US president. This is a direct result of president Donald Trump’s new restrictions on travel to Cuba which by total coincidence was put in place the same day I arrived. The locals have been worried because it happened suddenly and hugely impacts their income and way of life. I can try to empathize but I won’t truly understand what it’s like to unexpectedly not be able to feed your family.
06/09/19
The following day I got up early for a 2 hour journey to the city of Viñales. It was a day trip I decided to do last minute. Upon arrival there were incredible views of the mountains and farmland and cattle everywhere. The first thing I did was drink a pina colada with rum. If you’re wondering, yes I drank rum every single day. Next, I got a tour of a farm with the best tobacco in the entire world. I learned the entire process from the first to the last step of how it is made and rolled into a cigar. Then I drank some more rum. After my rum consumption I got on a horse for the first time ever. Alcohol followed by horse back riding seemed like a great idea. Of course I was given the fastest and most aggressive horse. I was given 10 seconds of instructions(no exaggeration) on how to ride it and I was on my own. It was a group of 10 of us but my horse galloped way ahead of everyone, stopping occasionally to grab grass. He followed my guidance most of the time except when he saw food. It started off scary but ended up being more fun than I expected. After horse back riding I got something to eat and went on a guided tour on a boat through a massive cave. The cave was cool, both literally and figuratively. I couldn’t help but wonder how many millenniums it took to create the fascinating rock formations in this dark abyss. I then headed back to Havana and concluded my last full day in Cuba with a bottle of Havana Club rum shared with me by a couple of Canadians I met.
This was an all encompassing challenging, educational, and fun trip. There’s so many misconceptions about this country but most of it is wrong. I’m grateful for this trip in dispelling my ignorance about the culture and way of life. This is one of the safest countries in the world with the most hospitable people you’d ever meet. I look forward to returning one day, preferably not during the summer time haha. Viva Cuba Libre!
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